the "Random Little Questions" thread

I frequently use Badab Black on my metals and it did not look horrible, but actually pretty ok (to me).

a question how long does it takes until the greenstuf (~1:1) is dried? because i modelled yesterday evening and its not really hard now

elChelli wrote:

how long does it takes until the greenstuf (~1:1) is dried?

3+ hours. I usually leave it over night though.

elChelli wrote:

because i modelled yesterday evening and its not really hard
now

That means you probably did not mix the 2 components thoroughly enough. It is essential to do that!
The best method is to make a yellow/blue sandwitch, then twist it, and then knead the hell out of it

it was all same green color... so it should bi mixed? or am i wrong?

elChelli wrote:

it was all same green color... so it should bi mixed? or am i wrong?

Green stuff comes in 2 components: blue and yellow. When you mix them (and here it is essential that mixing is VERY thorough), the resulting putty is green, hence the name green stuff.

The mixed (green) putty usually cures in a few hours.

Gonna try this first before I post a new thread. So I use games-workshop paints and I just stopped by my parents house and picked up some of my decade old paints that have dried out. (Used to play, starting back up with the mrs.) Is there anyway to wetten them back up? I put some water in and it seems to be working on one but not much on the others. What about boiling water?

The other thing is does anyone use other paints? I have never really mixed paints either since I don't think I could reproduce the colors for other units later...Basically anything you can teach me about painting would be wonderful. I have a steady brush hand but all my skill is putting colors in small spots and a bit of dry brushing. Thanks, Alex

PS I am loving this forum

Edit: Just noticed green putty discussion, anyone using modeling wax? I get it cheap from my parents who are jewelers and jewelry suppliers. Green stuff is just so damn pricey

From my experience, you might have to buy new paints if you can't revive them with water. It's the same with mine, some are dried up but can be used with a wet brush, but some are completely screwed up and don't mix with the water at all any more.

One of my erstwhile friends was/is a sculptor of decorative style pewter minis. He used jewelers wax for his creation AND hisextensive conversions. The results were quite stunning & seemed quite durable.
There are a lot of jewelry items like head pins, jump rings, & chain that are fantastic for conversions & modeling. Your parents MAY be a treasure trove of cool things to liberate for your projects...just don't get caught .

I use Americana & Folk Art paints. If I were to switch, I go for the Vallejo paints for their range of colors & quality.

Eliazar wrote:

you might have to buy new paints if you can't revive them with water.

Ouch! NEVER "revive" your paints with water. It's the worst thing you can do. They will look nice and new for approximately 6 hours (maybe a week if you are lucky) before turning undead on you and haunting your dreams.... by that I mean that the paints will irreversibly dry out and remain water un-soluble.

I always use Acetone (super cheap) to "revive" my GW paints. But I mainly buy Vallejo (I highly recommend those), which virtually never dry out thanks to the use of cutting edge flasks (as opposed to GW's prehistoric pots).
The Acetone thing works on almost every dried out paint. In my experience very severe cases (paint has turned into a small cracked stone at the bottom of it's pot) cannot be saved, i.e. become clumpy.
But it works for most cases.

Good to know

Ha I buy the stuff from my parents at cost. They would have my head otherwise.

I may have to check out Vallejo. GW paints are pretty frustrating at times.

Thanks again for the awesome forum

Alex

Thank you for reading my clumsy text ! Ancre.

This is, as James Bond would say, a "stir; don't shake" situation. The oily stuff is what kills the natural shininess of acrylics...SO grab a toothpick or similar thingy & stir until the paint has a uniform consistency & it should work fine.

Ok, thank you very much DeafNala ! Now I have to find a toothpick. On to the toothpick quest

TOOTHPICK QUEST!
In a pinch you could use the non-brush part of your paint brush. I usually save a bristleless brush just for stirring.

I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried using painted lego castles for terrain? Obviously the tops of everything you made would need to be Spackled but otherwise it seems like it may work?

Alex

PS. I have been using modeling wax pretty successfully. If anyone wants to know techniques or where to get it let me know

Edit: Since no one answered warning against it I started building with legos

link: https://boringmordheimforum.forumieren.com/scenery-and-terrain-f4/lego-prison-tower-t2476.htm

hi,
i've got a colour question ; I can't seem to reproduce the kind of purple Games Workshop uses on some of their Slaanesh armour (highlighting on black). Their boxes say nauseating blue, but I can't find the right colour mix.
Does anyone know / can help me ?
thanks in advance

a question

if you have painted your minis do you make some (dont know the word in english but try it, dont trust the dicitionaire) vanish/paint without color (auf deutsch, lackiert ihr die Figuren?) on the minis?

that there is a special protection...

lg thanks

I think you mean a spray finish; our British Brethren refer to this as a varnish. Whatever the terminology a coat of finish is a MUST to protect your WONDERFUL paint job. The stuff I generally use, Krylon Matte, might not be available in Europe, but I believe Testor's Dull Coat is available everywhere & does a nice job.

Yes, I use Testor's Dull Coat and it works wonderfully. The only bad thing is I can never find it in large cans. The ones I find at the local arts and craft stores are half sized cans. But a little bit goes a long way.

pascal the rascal wrote:

hi,
i've got a colour question ; I can't seem to reproduce the kind of purple Games Workshop uses on some of their Slaanesh armour (highlighting on black). Their boxes say nauseating blue, but I can't find the right colour mix.
Does anyone know / can help me ?
thanks in advance

it's hard to believe there's nobody out there that can help me ?

I think I this will be a great topic for my question as well.

I'm looking for a model to fit my Adventurers warband as a Noble. I'm trying to find a model that somewhat resembles a fencer. Light and thin rapier, more upright position, pref. sword down. I don't mind converting it a little. Price should not be too high.

Anyone got a suggestion for this?

vampirekhaine wrote:

I'm looking for a model to fit my Adventurers warband as a Noble. I'm trying to find a model that somewhat resembles a fencer. Light and thin rapier, more upright position, pref. sword down. I don't mind converting it a little. Price should not be too high.

Anyone got a suggestion for this?

Marquand Volker. This model is still available from GW.

Marquand sure is a great model. I hadn't thought of that. Good one, Koyote!

Also, how about these:
http://cianty-tabletop.blogspot.com/2010/02/swashbuckling-nobles.html

Ah spot on! Fantastic mini's. Marquand fits the idea that I have now the most. Might be changing once I find the other hero's.

Thnx cianty & Koyote