the "Random Little Questions" thread

Little Question: Is there anything i should think about before using washes? Never used a wash before, so.. any tips?

yep, thin them down (with water or a mix of water and floorpolish, or water and a detergent) ; never use them straight out of the pot
you should also test the differences with a real wash and a wash of really thinned paint ; they give different results as far as my experience (with gw paints) goes

Can anyone recommend a paint-on (preferably white) primer? I've had a couple of "spraying accidents" so I'd like to try a paint-on primer. Also coz I don't have a good place to spray indoors so I have to wait until the weather gets better to be able to primer!

Mithras wrote:

Can anyone recommend a paint-on (preferably white) primer? I've had a couple of "spraying accidents" so I'd like to try a paint-on primer. Also coz I don't have a good place to spray indoors so I have to wait until the weather gets better to be able to primer!

I ordered a pot of http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/index.php?act=pro&pre=val_hob_gcl_pnt_101_000. If you are interested in how I like it you'll have ask in a week or 2

How would I go about making a hat like this feller struts about in? I have green stuff, but have very limited experiance with it, so something already sculpted that I could build on would be helpful.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f63/15/13/07/66/witch_13.jpg

First, let me say that I am far from being the world's best sculptor - but I have had a go at sculpting a few hats.

For making hats I've found it's easiest to make the brim and bowl separately.

Flatten some greenstuff out on a sheet of plastic or wax paper (anything that it won't stick to) and cut a circle out of it (a bit larger than the desired size of the brim as it will have to accommodate the height of the model's head). Let that set for a bit (until it retains its shape when you remove it but is still slightly malleable) then place it on the head of the model - pushing it down to the level you want the brim to rest. Let it cure completely.

Now you'll have a model with a circle stuck to its head. Take a blob of greenstuff and stick it to the middle of the "brim circle" and use a sculpting tool to shape the bowl.

If you're good enough a sculptor to add embellishments (hat band, buckle, etc.), have at it.

That's about it.

If you don't want to try doing the brim yourself, Bretonnian Man-at-Arms helmets have a nice wide brim that you could file the detail off of and sculpt a more hat-like bowl.

Good luck!

Is there any Vallejo (or whatever the brand is called) colour that gives the same result as the GW "Devlan Mud"??

Great colour, sucky price!! (GW version that is)

Two little questions:

1) What's the best way to replicate rust?
2) What's the best way to paint rotting flesh/flesh that's been dead a long time??

thanks!

I like to speckle scab red and then carefully dry brush red gore onto boltgun metal for rust. For rotting flesh I recommend painting the rotting flesh over shadow grey leaving it in the sunken areas, and then dirtying it all up with graveyard earth. I have some zombies that look pretty good done like that.

Also Dark Omen was an awesome game. I never could beat the last level though, too much going on at once to handle when I was a kid, and isn't able to run on my computer anymore.

a couple of very thin brown washes on drybrushed metal works fine for me for rust
and for zombies ; haven't quite found the right way to do it (i'll show you some when the opportunity rises)

Captain Bernhardt wrote:

1) What's the best way to replicate rust?

The way I do rust;
- Basecoat the metal parts with Boltgun Metal, 2-3 even thin coats - no drybrushing.
- Wash the entire metal area with a very thinned down wash of Dark Flesh (about the consistency of milk).
- Repeat this about 2-3 times
- Wash the entire area with a very thinned down wash of Vermin Brown.
- When everything has dried; add scratches on the edges with a Detail Brush using Mithril Silver or Chainmail
- If you want to make the rust a bit darker you can add a wash of Badab Black before the 'scratching step'.

Captain Bernhardt wrote:

2) What's the best way to paint rotting flesh/flesh that's been dead a long time??

I'm going to paint up some Zombies myself as well, soon. I'm not sure how but when I'm done I'll be sure to share the recipe!


Hope this helps a bit.

Does anyone know how Miliput compares to Green stuff? GW greenstuff is just to expansive and apart from ordering online the only way I can get good moddeling putty is by buying miliput. There seems to be multipile versions of this product (black, white, grey,green,....) I want to know which is best/worst and which has the most likeness to GS

Green Stuff is capable of holding a higher level of detailing...or so I'm told...than Milliput.
The different colors denote different levels of capability; the super fine (silver) Milliput comes the closest to Green Stuff. The major difference, from my experience, is that Milliput is much easier to work with: i.e., it isn't as sticky. It dries much faster....about 2 hours...AND once dry, it can be drilled, sanded, turned, sawed, & tapped. Depending on the grade it's about 1/4 to 1/2 the price of Green Stuff. For bases I use Plumber's Epoxy Putty, which is similar to Milliput's Standard grade; it costs about 1/8 the price G.S..

jackanory wrote:

*can a possessed ever have too many claws and tentacles?

Well this one is easy... no, they cannot.

does anyone know Vallejo's Plastic Putty and how it compares to green stuff or miliput?

I finally went and bought some Devlan Mud. I will poke around for other threads where I know you have discussed application and usage (I know there are quite a few, and that it will take some time).

I have simply heard it mentioned so much that I am going against one of my principles - never buy any GW/Citadel paints. They're too viscous, too slick, their packaging is patently archaic, and they just don't spread well. All-in-all, cheap, generic, tubed stuff from the crafts store is much better.

Been using Reaper as that is what I have had best results with (and at some point am looking forward to using Vallejo), but hopefully this can turn my mind when it comes to GW/Citadel paints!

Also wanted to add:

1. Finishes/Coating: Since I am unable to find Testor's Dull-coat that often, I generally stick to hitting the subject with 2 coats of Krylon Gloss Coat and the Krylon Matte finish.

what kind of marker do you use for the traps of the bergjäger(Averländer)?

Because they should be swift to deploy i would refrain from pits. i thought about bear traps (perhaps made from these metal ork teeths).

The Bear Trap sounds like an excellent idea; there's a Bear Trap included in the Ogre Iron Guts boxed set:


You can get it separated from a good "Bitz" shop like The War Store:
http://www.thewarstore.com/product31266.html

it's way cheaper here (US) or here (France)

How do you paint wood?

I am not satisfied with my results now.

SerialMoM

Hi, I have a sister without weapon and I wanted to make a hole across his hand, to put in there the sling (well the copper thread that will hold the green stuff later)

How can I make that hole without ruining the mini? Thanks!

I'd use a drill:
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470006a&prodId=prod1095460
http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=5

Thanks Grumscull (damm I forgot to thank your post!)

Hopefully someone will spot this and help me out

I'm currently painting an Imperial Dwarf for The Hireling Agency and he is armed with Gromril Armour and Axe. Is there a particular colour that Gromril should be? I've painted his armour in my usual style with my usual technique, but is it supposed to be duller than steel? Or have a X-coloured sheen? Or something else entirely?

Any views gratefully appreciated! The quicker I get a response, the quicker I get him finished and the quicker you have a picture or two inflicted on you in the gallery! (as if that's an incentive... )

I've always seen Gromril painted just like steel, honestly.

So, how do you go about rebasing all metal minis that come with a base attached?