Using the "dip" method - heretical??

Quick question for you all - Has anyone ever tried the "dip" method for painting models?

Or have I just commited heresy???

The reason I'm asking is that I'd really like to play w/ painted models w/o spending the usual insane amounts of time painting a single mini that I'm known for. It would be different, I guess, if the minis looked even half way decent when I was done. So, I'm seeing if anyone has ever tried or had any success w/ the "dip" method.

Hi there.

I did make a dipping tutorial - it's in the "well" tutorial section

https://boringmordheimforum.forumieren.com/tutorials-f18/tutorial-using-fanatic-army-painter-t753.htm

It works for me - thats all I can say.

You can also check out the armypainter homepage - they have some pictures and tutorials as well.

http://thearmypainter.com/

i think the devlan mud method is a good alternative to the dip

Just to give my 5 cents here: Dipping (har har) is the way to go if you're only in it for the games. Most people don't have the time to both paint an army and play the games (speaking as a university student who now a days gets stressed just by looking at my workbench).

So it's not heresy, just good old time saving.

Dipping.. heh he hehe..... nevermind.

Thanks for the replies. It's good to know that the majority (I'm assuming since I didn't recieve any negative replies) doens't look down on the whole "dip" method. This past weekend I looked up as much as I could about it and looked at some other sites galleries that contained "dipped" models.

It seems a lot of people like to use a brush instead of actuall dipping the model and from what I gathered, it has to do w/ control. I painted up a sample gor and will get some pics up as soon as I can.

Mr_Sinister - I used to be into Mordheim just for the game, but, I started to really like the painting part of it so now when I do any painting, I get overly particular about EVERYTHING! And that is not a good thing in my case. I start to get frustrated that I'm not getting anywhere and then I stop painting leaving partially painted models littering my shelves. Now I'm looking for a way of actually getting a full warband done and on the table w/ the least amout of time as possible while still making the models halfway decent looking. And believe me, I'm all to aware of the lack of time to do both painting and playing as I have a 1-1/2 year old daughter (who loves to roll dice!! Much to her mother's dismay... ), #2 is on the way, work, afterwork activities, a house that is always needing something fixed...yeah...time. Stupid time...

Anywho! I'll try to get a pic or two up of the test model and maybe I can get some input from those of you who have tried the method.

Thanks again!

If you want to see my dipped miniatures look at my blog here.

https://boringmordheimforum.forumieren.com/miniatures-f2/alexbware-s-miniatures-t751.htm

Most of the miniatures there are dipped.

As I pointed out in my tutorial - I don't paint the dip on the miniatures - but dip them in the can if possible - let it drip of a little bit (to save some of that precious dip) and then I spin them on my accu-drill in a cardboardbox (make sure that its sealed in the bottom) to get rid of most of the dip - otherwise it pools to much).

I do however remove excess dip with a dry brush from the miniatures after I spin them (from eyes mouth, weapons, etc) - this is very important if you want to get a good result (so finish one miniature at a time when dipping - otherwise it dries up and leaves marks if you remove the excess dip).

Regarding the use of devlan mud. Its not quite the same - Mud is an ink, and doesn't protect the miniatures as well as dip (especially with an extra layer of dull coat) - also the dip is much faster on smaller miniatures - With devlan mud you might want to highlight, add some more details after you have applied it - not with dip (it takes 24 hours to dry). Don't get me wrong that is great, but not if you suffer from the "lead under the bed" syndrome.

I have only used dip on one big miniature, that couldn't fit in the can (a BB ogre - see pic below (even if its not fantasy)) - I painted the dip on with a brush and remove some excess from the eyes and other areas where it pooled (it just takes a little longer than spinning) - all the minis in the pic are dipped by the way.



In my blog I made some big orcs from gamezone. I spun them on my accu drill (a few of them fell off though) - they are BIG, so be sure there are very well balanced before you spin them.

I also recommend spinning the miniatures much more that "slinging" them. If you do that and something happens - the miniature is DEAD (or close to). It has happened to me before.

If you are in doubt whether or not you minis will fall of while spinning try spinning them (without dip of cause) over some pillows or over your bed of some soft area.

I have used the dipping method a lot - so feel free to ask me any questions.

Good luck and lets see some pictures.

I've tried the "army painter" dip, it gives pretty good shadows without much work, but it's way too glossy... Only looked good on my lizardmen (which was really cool and scaly) but on humans it sucks..

That is why you give it a coat of well errhmmm "Dull Coat" from modelmaster afterwards - it takes away the shine... :-)

Well, here are a few pics of the test model. Sort of a "blah" palette but the colors aren't really the issue right now ... This model took me less than 45 min to paint up and brush w/ a MinWax stain and varnish combo that I found in the basement that the previous home owners had left. There's quite a bit of shine. I used a little bit of the GW matte varnish to reduce some of it, but I guess it needs a better coat. Either that or a few lightly drybrushed highlights could do the trick as well.

The stain pooled a bit much on the top of the red where the loin cloth meets the waist on the back of the model so I'll have to give the spin method a try or keep a closer watch w/ a brush while the model sits. Though, I do like how the metal parts of the weapon turned out looking a bit rusty.

Over all, I think it's a nice fast way to get a table-top quality force ready that actually looks somewhat decent.

It may take a little practice (as pretty much everything) but you're in your way to it.

This beastman don't look bad at all.

With just a little more care and once you get the hang of tinted varnish, I'm sure you're going to have a suitable battleforce in no time.

KEEP THE GOOD WORK.

Best wishes.

Overall I think the model looks pretty good.

I do however agree that its much to shiny. The dull coat I use is a brush-on - not spray and it works. Most sprays are satin not matt (even GWs).

Also - don't forget to let the model dry completely (24 hours) before you add the dull coat.

Other than that keep it up, and please post more pics.

On a side note. I also glue sand to the base before I dip the miniature. The dip seals the sand, and makes it easier to paint afterwards.

If you want to get rid of the shine consider investing in some hard core matte varnish like Testors Dull Coat.

I know I had originally started this as a thread regarding the use of the dipping method. Why dip? To get things painted up in a decent amount of time. Just to show how slow of a painter I am otherwise, here's the shaman from my Beastmen that I've been just painting.




So:
Gor - 45 min TOTAL
Shaman - been working on it since I finished up w/ the gor. It took me as long just to do the fur sections on the shaman by just painting as it did to do the gor from start to finish. Obviously I've not just sat down for a couple hours straight and painted, but, the time I've got in so far I could have probably done up 3 or 4 more gors using the dip method.

I know the painted mini looks better than the dipped mini...I just need to find some sort of middle ground. Though, I'm so picky when it comes to actually painting a model that I seriously doubt that will ever happen.

There IS quite a difference in the quality of the paint job. Probably the best solution is do both; i.e., dip the minis to get them ready for gaming, then go back & do additional highlighting & detail work to bring them up to the standard of the Shaman...VERY NICE job on the Shaman BTW.

Sad thing Deaf is: Although possible, it's a bit difficult to paint over varnish.

May the answer is the other way around; paint the minis with basic colors, HIGHLIGHT the upper parts, add details, and THEN dip the miniature.

As always, only trial will show the best method for you.

But if all you want are "tabletop quality" miniatures, I think the first beastman fill the bill perfectly.

Oh! and that Shaman looks very good to me!

So it's up to you to decide the method of choice.

Best wishes.