After reading all of the great threads in the tutorial section, I decided to post one of my own here.Building DynamIc KrootTools:
-Drill with bits
-Kroot Parts:STEP 1: Clean off the flash.(I can’t emphasize this enough. If you don’t clean off the mold lines your model will look bad even with a good conversion.)
-Just drag the edge of your hobby knife across your mold lines. The blade should be perpendicular to the mold line.
(Below I am dragging from the forehead to the spines. Always tilt the sharp edge away from the direction of motion
)STEP 2: LegsIf you want your Kroot to appear to be in motion, then you have to adjust the legs.
-Use your clippers to cut the back of the forward leg.
-Cut an angle almost to the knee.
-Remove the excess plastic with your hobby knife.
-Smooth the rough edges of the incision as you did the mold lines.
-Apply glue to the back of the knee and hold it in the bent position until it sets.
-Adhere the legs to the Torso.STEP 3: Hands This step will take practice. If you make a mistake just remember that’s why we have glue.
-The idea is to model a Kroot with free hands.
-Starting with these parts.
-Cut the bulk of the weapons from the hands.
-Using your smallest drill bit, tap a hole across the palm of the hand.
-Then proceed to make the following incisions.
-Try to remove small slivers at a time. It will look rough at first.
-Smooth the edges with your hobby knife as you did with the mold lines. If this is not effective, then continue removing small slivers.
-Repeat these steps for the other hand.
-You will need to drill and pin the second hand to the wrist of the second arm.
-If this intersection is not perfect just add a strip of GS to the wristband.STEP 4: Pinning Arms
-Try some test poses using Sticky Tack. (This can be found in any office supply store)
-Using your smallest drill bit, drill a hole down the arm, starting from the shoulder.
-Drill another hole in the torso.
-Insert and adhere a length of paper clip.
-Using Pliers, cut the paper clip to a length that will fit the hole in the arm and adhere.STEP 5: Modeling Features with Green Stuff (GS) Note: You must repeatedly wet GS or it will be too sticky and unruly to model.
-Roll a ball of GS about the size of the gap in the joint.
-Using a wet finger, press the ball of GS softly into the gap.
-Again using a wet finger, sweep the excess GS around the edges of the joint until it wraps around to the back of the arm.
-Add a dip to the armpit using a sculpting tool.
-Again using a wet finger, sweep the GS at it’s edges until it smoothly blends with the models form. If this doesn’t work, just add strips of flattened GS where needed to give the impression of musculature.
Hands and Feet:
-Roll 4 small balls of GS.
-1 for the palm of each hand and 2 for the sole of the raised foot.
-Gently press the GS balls onto the appropriate bits.
Back and Waist:
-Roll out a long strip of GS and press it firmly into the waist of the model.
-Again using a wet finger sweep the GS until smooth with model.
-Roll out a long strip of GS and cut of the end.
-The length is entirely up to you.
-Cut most of the plastic tongue out of the models mouth.
-Use your modeling tool to insert the GS tongue.
-This will take plenty of practice.
-Use the modeling tool to reform the GS where it meets the model. You want a smooth transition.
-Press lightly at the back center of the tongue using a wet hobby knife. This will give the tongue a well defined crease.
-Position the tongue using any tool that allows you the greatest ease. It may help to wet it first. Other wise the GS will stick to the tool.
-Here is a bottom view of your work so far:
Note: After all that hard work you don’t want your model to roll on its side and smash the GS into some amorphous shape while it’s drying. I recommend using Sticky tack to prop up the model parts as the GS hardens.Here is the final product:
Many of these techniques can be modified to provide a wide variety of poses.
I hope this article is helpful. If you have questions please let me know and I’ll do my best to answer them.