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Paul1Beck
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PostSubject: Paul's WIP   Sun 15 Dec 2013 - 21:21

Here is my first building I've ever made! I think the plan next time is to cut the foam core board, do the etching, and paint it before inserting the posts in the corners. This way I can paint the front and back much easier. I also wont have to mask the corner supports for painting, etc.

Marking out the bricks took a lot more time than I expected. Do people normally etch the brick with a fine point to get the design, cut with an exacto, then use another tool to open up the space more? I then went in with another tool to round the edges a bit, but might have done it too strongly.

I was going to use the balsa wood for the cross beams, but I think etching them worked out just fine.

I apologize for the non-existent crop job. The iPad crop didn't save.





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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 5:09

Nice work. Is there going to be an upper level?
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 5:53

That looks GREAT! The half timbers & exposed brick/stonework are LOVELY. Keep up the FINE WORK...you'll have a city in no time at all!   thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 9:02

You should see my first building! Smile This is great! As Von Kurst wrote, is there going to be an upper level?
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 9:42

I think I was planning to leave this at one level and make a roof, so this would be a very small one family dwelling. It is 4" x 4" so it is pretty small, but adding another level would make sense to be an actual functional building.

If I were to make a second level, would you suggest doing another 4" x 4" or a 5" x 4" with a 1" overhang on one side and add supports? Would you do a collapsed wall or 2 walls? I was planning to add a roof, so a collapsed wall could make that difficult.

Thanks for your feedback!
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 11:25

Interesting take on the building. And it's great that you are looking for solutions to save you time and effort in the future.

Have you seen this thread? Theomar Pius is your man when it comes to getting some of the best tips on how to make terrain - especially this kind of terrain:

http://boringmordheimforum.forumieren.com/t6578-dunbrough-and-gripenhem-wip-log

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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 14:38

Definitely with overhang, but I think that 1'' is to much. Maybe half an inch... And without supports, somehow supports makes it look like wild west type of building, in my opinion.
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 16 Dec 2013 - 16:20

good job  thumbsup 

my first building looked like a psychotic squirrel had attacked the building while being covered in paint  Very Happy 

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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Tue 17 Dec 2013 - 13:55

Great start, loos very promising!

Definitely with overhang, but I think that 1'' is to much. Maybe half an inch... And without supports, somehow supports makes it look like wild west type of building, in my opinion.

Jap, i second what vagabond said, but why not make it 3 levels?
The more levels it gets the more intersting it makes the game. You could make the thirs level overhang another  half inch, and maybe could arrange it like the roof , beams and most walls of the third level has gone, with a big hole in the middle, and a little ladder or collapsed beam that leads down on level 2, with a minor hole down on zero. That would look like a big junk of the comet struck the top of the house, and some parts made it through all the levels.

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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Thu 19 Dec 2013 - 22:19

So I built a second story and a roof. Unfortunately, I pinned the attic section so the roof would glue the correct shape, upside-down. So, once the glue dries for the roof, I will flip it back over, this will have the timbers match up a bit more. I am also going to add a balsa board to make a definite break between stories.

I still need to etch out the A frame for the roof and create floors. I also need to paint the roof. I think for a first building this is coming out pretty well.

Images are dark, it is kind of 11pm here and so the lighting is a bit lacking.

Feedback welcome!



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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Fri 20 Dec 2013 - 5:33

LOOKIN' GOOD! The overhang adds to the visual interest of the piece. GREAT WORK!   thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Fri 20 Dec 2013 - 15:58

Keep up the good work!
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Sun 22 Dec 2013 - 9:19

like the broken plastersection on the wall, where the bricks come out, super detail!

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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 30 Dec 2013 - 7:53

I need to get to finishing my building, but my Hirst Arts molds arrived in the mail, as well as my plaster, so I couldn't resist working on that while watching (American) football yesterday.

More pictures can be seen on my tumblr blog as well as the ability to zoom further in.



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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 30 Dec 2013 - 8:24

That's quite an assortment of COOL accent pieces, aka clutter, for you board. Have FUN with all the painting!  thumbsup 
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Mon 30 Dec 2013 - 20:45

Fun pile of clutter you have there. thumbsup 
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Tue 31 Dec 2013 - 7:27

For a first building or even if it was not a first this is very good mate. I do wanna suggest you invest a little extra time on that roof, just make the tiles smaller in size...that will make the look a lot more realistic...well..."realistic" I guess =)
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Tue 31 Dec 2013 - 8:00

Yeah, I got the feedback from JoaoS to make smaller tiles for the roof as well. I saw other people's and didn't know what size they made and just tried 3/4". JoaoS suggested 1.5cm long and 0.5cm wide.

I will probably keep the roof as it, add a little more texture and paint it up. Since this is my first building, there is a lot of trial and error, so I want to get all the errors in one building. The next building would then be theoretically error free.

Quick question for people who use the foam core boards. How do you peel the paper without it warping the entire board? I am noticed my building is a bit warped and I will be trying to fix that with the flooring and cross section beams, but is there a trick to pull the paper off easily? I was considering hitting it with a blow dryer to possibly loosen up the glue.

Thanks!
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Wed 1 Jan 2014 - 10:43

That looks really great for a first try.  There are a ton of great techniques you can begin to tap into with projects like these.  Too many really to go into in this one space.  To answer a couple of your questions here though, with foamcore I tend to just use a ballpoint pen to make my stonework.  The ballpoint runs over the foam without tearing and makes really nice indentations.  Plus if you use a black pen (not blue, I've learned that the hard way!) you've already got some color in the hard to reach places for your paint.  I don't usually do woodwork in foam, and I doubt the pen would be fine enough to make that look good, but I have seen people use a small wire brush to achieve the right look there.

As for stripping the paper, don't use a hairdryer.  I've never tried myself, but the foam is pretty susceptible to heat and will likely melt far before you get the glue to loosen.  I use a water bath to get my paper off.  I fill a plate or a baking pan (depends on the size of the pieces I have cut out) with water and drop the foamcore pieces in to sit.  This allows the paper and the glue to soften while I do other things.  Then I'll come back and strip off the paper.  Usually I have to give it a second bath to loosen everything, and there is a decent amount of scrubbing involved, but this is by far the best way to do it that I have tried.  

As for your roof try this: Making Slate Roofs

That might give you some tips on how to make your roof shingles look a little better, and it is much easier than doing them one by one.

Hope that helps!
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Wed 1 Jan 2014 - 11:04

Do you not use an exacto knife to score the foamcore before using the pen?

Okay, your slate roof tiles production method is now stolen. That looks like it is quite a bit less work, not having to cut everything into tiny pieces and not having to glue each tile group individually.

I will give your softening strategy a whirl, do you usually strip the paper off both sides? Or can you manage to only do 1? I like having the paper on one side as it seems it would be more stable. But you can attest to whether it is needed or not I'd imagine.

Thanks for the feedback and great idea.
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Wed 1 Jan 2014 - 11:43

Quote :
Quick question for people who use the foam core boards. How do you peel the paper without it warping the entire board?

In my experience warping tends to occur when I paint the foamcore not before. Also it depends on the quality of the foamcore. Some brands tend to warp easily and others don't seem to warp at all. Unfortunately for me, I get all of my foamcore by scavenging for used posters so the quality of the board is up to the theater, not to me.  Very Happy 

I'm not sure, but from what you have said about your process, you are painting the individual walls before attaching them and you seem to be doing the bases and floors as a separate step(?) I'm sure that makes painting easier, but for stability and strength I prefer to put the pieces together first and paint last. To each their own.
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Wed 1 Jan 2014 - 12:30

Paul1Beck wrote:
Do you not use an exacto knife to score the foamcore before using the pen?

I do, but usually only when I draw a pattern on the paper before cutting.  If I have some design element that is fiddly and needs to be perfect, I will draw it onto the paper first so I can erase it and play with it until it is right.  Then I cut through the paper and score the design onto the foam itself.  Then I go over it with a pen to widen it.  Sometimes I will also use the knife if I am doing larger stonework, but that depends on the project style.

But if I am just making rough stones like what you have, I don't bother with the knife.  

Oh, and if I am making cracks or other broken details I will use just the knife and not the pen so that the detail is finer.  

Paul1Beck wrote:
Okay, your slate roof tiles production method is now stolen.
 Smile That's what it is there for!

Paul1Beck wrote:
I will give your softening strategy a whirl, do you usually strip the paper off both sides? Or can you manage to only do 1? I like having the paper on one side as it seems it would be more stable. But you can attest to whether it is needed or not I'd imagine.

Thanks for the feedback and great idea.

Oh, right. Warping.  I knew there was something else I was going to address. If you are only peeling the paper off of one side, then that is where you warping issue is coming from.  The lack of balance between the stress placed on the foam almost immediately creates significant warping issues.  If you take the paper off of both sides, you should have much less issues with it. Painting does sometimes cause warping as well, for as the paint dries, it can shrink, causing warping.  You can solve that by painting both sides at one.  Really, though, I have very little warping issues with foamcore if both sides are stripped.

If you are worried about strength a good solution can be to double (or even triple) layer it.  I've done that in the past.  Also, gluing the pieces together to make walls, floors, and ceilings adds a good amount of strength.  If you are really worried about it, you can use 0.5 inch thick extruded polystyrene foam (the pink stuff you use as insulation).  That works relatively similarly, and doesn't have any paper backing to peel off.  To be honest, I rarely use foamcore as a wall all by itself anymore, it is usually in multiple layers, or in conjunction with other materials.
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PostSubject: Re: Paul's WIP   Today at 3:28

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