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Svenn
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PostSubject: Drybrushing   Sun 26 Jul 2009 - 16:47

I understand drybrushing and have done it in the past, but I haven't painted in many years. I've been trying to drybrush some grey shades over my black robes but for some reason it's just not working. It's not alwyas sticking to the raised edges, but sometimes paint seems to get in random places where it shouldn't. It looks like crap. I don't have pictures right now but I'll try and get some later.

I'm not doing anything too weird. I'm filling the brush with the color I want to drybrush, then wiping it off on some newspaper until just about nothing is coming off. Then I just brush over the parts I want to drybrush. I'm going crazy because I've drybrushed with success before, and I don't know what's going wrong now. Any tips/suggestions?
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mrtn
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Sun 26 Jul 2009 - 17:16

Sounds like there's still too much paint in the brush.
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Sun 26 Jul 2009 - 17:50

mrtn wrote:
Sounds like there's still too much paint in the brush.
But I brushed it on the newspaper until nothing was coming off of it anymore so I don't understand why that woudn't be enough.
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 5:12

WELL...if it's filling in the undercuts, the paints too thin; if it's not covering the high points evenly, it's too thick. Since it's doing both, it means the paint is not mixed thoroughly enough. Wink
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Svenn
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 7:24

DeafNala wrote:
WELL...if it's filling in the undercuts, the paints too thin; if it's not covering the high points evenly, it's too thick. Since it's doing both, it means the paint is not mixed thoroughly enough. Wink
That very well could have been the case. I was using almost dead grey that I tried to revive with a little water, but it was still thick... then I mixed it with some old chaos black. I'm going to try again, maybe with some better paint. How can I tell what's a good paint for drybrushing? Is there any way other than just testing it out?
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 7:35

Quote :
How can I tell what's a good paint for drybrushing? Is there any way other than just testing it out?

Experimentation and experience, pretty much. One more thing that greatly influences your drybrushing results is how glossy or dull both the surface you're working on and the paint you're working with is. Drybrushing generally works better on (and with) dull or satin finish paints.

I'm not even sure those are the terms used for paints.. the point of my ramblings is: Stay away from the glossy paints. If the surface you want to drybrush is glossy, consider hitting it with a coat of dull spray varnish first.

Good luck!
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 7:37

Thanks. I'm attempting to drybrush over chaos black right now.
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 22:09

Okay, this isn't the model I was talking about, but there's some drybrushing on here: http://www.tabletopgeeks.com/mutant-painting-wip-part-1/

It's on his paints and a little on his boots. It looks better than the other stuff I've done, but I still think it doesn't look that great. Suggestions?
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 22:48

First off, I haven't even heard of anyone achieving good looking blacks by drybrushing. It's a difficult color to get nice looking highlights on at the best of times, and in my experience it takes some pretty well-placed gradients and hard highlights to get there fast.

On the boots, I'd say you might have been a bit impatient. The dark brown base doesn't look like it's covering all that well - those splotches of black shining through on the large surfaces will definately detract from the final effect. That goes for some of the skin bits as well, the nose especially.

It looks like you're going directly from scorched brown to a snakebite drybrush? I'd say that's too big of a leap contrast-wise, for such large and smooth surfaces. I'd want a middle-step in there to make the gradient smoother. You'd probably get away with a 50/50 scorched/snake wix, leaving the scorched brown you have on there in the recesses.

The surfaces you're working on here aren't the most optimal place for drybrushing. It works best on surfaces with a bit more texture. Still workable, and definately worth proceeding with - just saying don't get discouraged with the technique if the results dont meet your expectations this time.

Oh yeah, one more thing on your original question: If your paint's acting weirdly, make sure you don't have more water than you think hiding up at the base of the bristles.

Excuse my language if it sounds a bit blunt at times btw. I'm more of a doer than teacher, but try to help out where I can Embarassed
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PostSubject: Re: Drybrushing   Mon 27 Jul 2009 - 22:52

Actually, for the boots I did a snakebite leather base... then used a brown wash which turned out to be thicker than I had expected... so then I attempted to drybrush snakebite leather on top to lighten it up some. It didn't quite come out how I planned.

Thanks for the tips!
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